Finally, Den persuades me to get on a Bus

It was like a catalogue of errors, but after Den being ill over Christmas, having to wait for our spares to clear customs and with me being ill through food poisoning, we were ready to leave Sucre.

We were heading south towards Potosi. The road was sealed again, which should mean that even though it was hilly, we should be able to make it within two days. The road followed a valley downhill for the first 30km out of Sucre, and the sun was out, so we maintained good progress. Then the road started to climb, and the sun became more intense. We took a while to duck into the shade of some trees at the road side. By the time we got back on the bike it was fairly late, but we carried on. Then it all started to go a bit wrong. Den was struggling with the altitude, hills and heat, we both came to the same conclusion.... Den wanted to go on a bus, but me being a mad keen cyclist and all that, I wanted to go the whole way on the bike. There was no way I was going to cheat by getting a bus!!

Then Den had an asthma attack on one of the steeper slopes we were climbing. So decision made, we were getting the bus. As we sat down to decide how we were going to get to Potosi, a family came along in a 4x4 and offered us a lift. Den nearly bit their hands off!

We found Potosi to be a poor relation to Sucre, if we had been to Potosi first we would have thought it was quite nice... as big towns go in Bolivia. The one thing we would say about the place is 'where are all the restaurants/cafes'? We struggled to find anywhere nice to get some food in. The big tourist trip to do in Potosi is a trip to the silver mine. The mountain is huge and looms forbiddingly over the town to the South. Interestingly, most of the Spanish empire's wealth came from silver mined in this very mountain for over two centuries.. We did think about going on the tour, but quickly dismissed the idea as we both have an aversion to spending money on crawling through puddles 100's of metres underground whilst breathing in toxic fumes, so we though we would give it a miss!!

Potosi

Potosi Bus Station, best bit of design in Bolivia

So moving on from Potosi involved a cursed cheating bus ride. Luckily, it was on unpaved Bolivian roads so there was at least an element of adventure. Of sorts... I wouldn't quite go along with the horror stories I'd heard from backpackers about overnight Bolivian bus journeys. It's still a lot easier than on the bike. So 11 hours overnight on a bus with a broken seat, packed to the rafters with snoring locals. Most people were friendly though and we chatted as much as our Spanish would allow until the lights went out and everyone tried to sleep. Den managed not one wink, and let me know about it the next day, luckily and much to her annoyance, I had a great night's sleep!!

Den:

Villazon was like any other border town not somewhere you wanted to hang around. We changed our money getting a better rate than we had bargained on (hopefully... well it was 6.30am) and on to the border proper, well what a disorganised crossing, all in it too 3 hours to go through both sides, I think buses disgorge early then when the border opens its a game of catch up. So with that over and done with we went in search of breakfast and another bus. Wow! Found a bakery with French looking yummy stuff, mummmm, 2^nd world here we come!

This time the bus was very luxurious, way better than UK buses and we even had DVD's to watch. We got to Salta by 6pm and there finishes our buses out of the Andes, I for one am very glad, but Rich is cursing the loss of those miles! Especially as the road from the border to Salta drops over 2000m. We had a slight altercation with the baggage handlers in Salta, who was asking for a tip ,fair enough I thought... until I saw Rich's bike....the front mudguard was ripped out of the front holdings and all bent out of shape and his saddle was all scuffed up. Now, it is usually me being placating and Rich arguing the point, but in a reverse of roles, it was me pointing out the damage and refusing to budge on what was a voluntary tip. Lack of sleep makes me feisty me thinks.

WE LOVE SALTA, it is lovely, this may be because we have come from a definite 3 world country or it could be that it is just lovely, either way we liked the place, especially the Carrefour! Leaving Salta was a wrench, but leave we must if we are to have any hope of reaching Buenos Aires by the 14^th, which is the target we have set ourselves. Being the day before Rich's birthday.

Salta

I'd like your biggest bottle of beer please waiter....

The start of the ride was great, I really felt the difference between cycling at altitude and here, so much nicer and easier!! After 25 miles we were flying and having a good time, then some kind fella stopped us and said it was raining heavily up ahead, it was very overcast and looked like rain so not wholly unexpected. At 37 miles we were soaked and low in morale. An opportune shelter at the side of the road provided a much needed dry spot for a couple of hours.

We decided to push on and head for San Jose de Metan we were hoping to find a shop on route and maybe somewhere to camp. At 9.15pm we rolled in to Metan and collapsed in to the nearest hotel, 92miles as the first day back is pretty impressive even if I say so myself!!