We've been climbing a few hills lately, here's one of them snaking it's way up the hillside, from back on the road between Nasca and Abancay
Sometimes, even though they look flat, they are in fact climbing...
Anyhow, we had a day off in Cusco. The area surrounding the Plaza de Aramas in Cusco is picture postcard stuff, there's a couple of colonial era churches and alleys with Inca stonework foundations. Reading up on it and there is lots to see and do in the city. One of those times when you simply don't have long enough. Our main reason for coming here though, like 90% of the other tourists I would imagine, is to see Machu Picchu.
First things first, how expensive is it to get to Machu Picchu? Makes you wish that we'd visited the other free to view Inca ruins further back on the road to Abancay. We took a kamikaze collectivo to Ollytambee. Made it alive, just. Then took the $34, 1 and a bit hour train to Aguas Calientes. Which is the stop for Machu Picchu. Guide book described it as most awful small town in Peru, but since that book was written they've spent lots of money doing it up. Can't say there was too much wrong with it, and certainly unlike some cities in Peru, you never felt in imminent danger of being mugged. Stayed in a fairly decent hotel, and got up at 4am to be ready to board the first bus up to Machu Picchu.
I won't even try to describe Machu Picchu, it's breathtaking. Even if it does give the appearance, from a distance, of having been colonised by North Face attired ants. So even if you are paying for the privilege of visiting, it's money well spent. It even has a hotel at the entry gate. Sanctuary lodge – cheapest room, $800 per night if you please.
First things first, how expensive is it to get to Machu Picchu? Makes you wish that we'd visited the other free to view Inca ruins further back on the road to Abancay. We took a kamikaze collectivo to Ollytambee. Made it alive, just. Then took the $34, 1 and a bit hour train to Aguas Calientes. Which is the stop for Machu Picchu. Guide book described it as most awful small town in Peru, but since that book was written they've spent lots of money doing it up. Can't say there was too much wrong with it, and certainly unlike some cities in Peru, you never felt in imminent danger of being mugged. Stayed in a fairly decent hotel, and got up at 4am to be ready to board the first bus up to Machu Picchu.
I won't even try to describe Machu Picchu, it's breathtaking. Even if it does give the appearance, from a distance, of having been colonised by North Face attired ants. So even if you are paying for the privilege of visiting, it's money well spent. It even has a hotel at the entry gate. Sanctuary lodge – cheapest room, $800 per night if you please.
Returned to Cusco in the afternoon by the same route that we had arrived. Not quite ready to get back on the bike the next day.
Short day to Urcos. Mostly flat or downhill following broadly a river valley. Stopped off en route to see a pre Inca structure that was later modified by the Inca civilization to act as both aqueduct and toll gate to control the flow of traffic into and out of the sacred valley. Stayed in a wonderfully tranquil hostel.
Short day to Urcos. Mostly flat or downhill following broadly a river valley. Stopped off en route to see a pre Inca structure that was later modified by the Inca civilization to act as both aqueduct and toll gate to control the flow of traffic into and out of the sacred valley. Stayed in a wonderfully tranquil hostel.
58 miles to Sicuani. The road followed the course of a river all day. It's fairly flat going. The hard shoulder was intermittent for a while but the only obstacles were the dogs, who like to chase tired cyclists. The town of Sicuani looks like a bit of a tip, but found what looks like a reasonable hostel and the central plaza was quite pleasant.
Final 4000m pass before getting to Lake Titicaca. Had an early start from Sicuani in order to climb the last major climb before Puno. Saw an interesting sight on the way up the climb. A chap was riding his moto with a 12 foot plank of wood strapped to the back...now that's not inline with the bike, you understand, that's across the back of the bike. Like he was out to clothes-line oncoming trucks. Still he was happy with the set up.
Anyhow, the ride was all going well until the afternoon wind and rain kicked in for the day just as we approached the summit of the Abra la Raya pass. We got a bit of a soaking before we reached the top. Where I got to pet my first Alpaca.... can see why they make jumpers out of their fur... very soft. All set for the rewarding downhill bit, and the headwind sprang up with gusto. How frustrating! We made it to the village of Santa Rosa about 20 miles down from the summit and called it a day. Stayed in a very friendly guest house, whose main attraction was that the toilet was in the same building as our room. Unlike the other hostel in town.
Final 4000m pass before getting to Lake Titicaca. Had an early start from Sicuani in order to climb the last major climb before Puno. Saw an interesting sight on the way up the climb. A chap was riding his moto with a 12 foot plank of wood strapped to the back...now that's not inline with the bike, you understand, that's across the back of the bike. Like he was out to clothes-line oncoming trucks. Still he was happy with the set up.
Anyhow, the ride was all going well until the afternoon wind and rain kicked in for the day just as we approached the summit of the Abra la Raya pass. We got a bit of a soaking before we reached the top. Where I got to pet my first Alpaca.... can see why they make jumpers out of their fur... very soft. All set for the rewarding downhill bit, and the headwind sprang up with gusto. How frustrating! We made it to the village of Santa Rosa about 20 miles down from the summit and called it a day. Stayed in a very friendly guest house, whose main attraction was that the toilet was in the same building as our room. Unlike the other hostel in town.
Here we go, the rain cloud that was about to engulf us.
85 miles.... and Den's still talking to me. With the shorter than intended day yesterday, we had an early start today and managed to put in 45 miles to the town of Pucará in time for an early lunch. Our plan was then to push on to Calapuja before looking for somewhere to stay. Unfortunately, there was nowhere, so we knuckled down and rode into Juliaca, some 85 miles from our start point just before dusk. Our guide book warned that there was nothing special about the place, and they were right. It was however the longest day's cycling of our entire trip to date.
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